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Martin Margiela for Hermès – what was once radical is now timeless

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Martin Magiela for Hermes spring-summer 2004
Sometimes Pinterest does this annoying thing of suggesting ‘picks for you’ pins that have nothing to do with what you like. The exception is the treasure trove of Martin Margiela for Hermès era pins that have been popping up this week. It sent me down a PurseForum/The Fashion Spot rabbit hole looking for more examples from 1997-2003 (also the subject of an exhibition coming to Antwep’s MoMu museum in March 2017).

These clothes were radical for Hermès at the time but look thoroughly contemporary now. And this was very much my look in the late 90s. I wore the slightly cheaper version from Joseph, Agnès b. and Helmut Lang, consisting of boy cut trousers with a long skinny knit tunic on top, a leather shirt dress and my beloved rubber riding boots. If they fit me now, they’d probably look great today…
Margiela for Hermes 1997-2003
Martin Margiela for Hermes
Martin Margiela for Hermes
Martin Margiela for Hermes
Martin Margiela for Hermes
Martin Margiela for Hermes

WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: The Fashion Spot; Purse Forum
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

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The anticipation hour

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Hermes l'Heure Impatiente watch

When I was being measured for my Turnbull and Asser shirts, they added a couple of extra millimetres to the cuff measurement to accommodate my watch. They specifically ask you what kind of watch you wear for this purpose. That would almost be redundant in the case of Hermès’ new l’Heure Impatiente watch. As part of the Slim d’Hermès line, it’s flatter than a pancake which is all the more impressive when you consider the mechanical complications they have to squeeze into the case.

The unique – and adorably whimsical – thing about the l’Heure Impatiente is that it celebrates the hour before the appointed time. The anticipation hour, if you will. So a ‘mechanical hourglass’ allows you to count down to a particular event (think ‘hot date’ rather than ‘job interview’) with the final moment announced by a gentle two-second chime audible only to you. All this in the chicest of understated watches, with stencil-like numerals by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig.

While the Cape Cod and the Médor are well loved Hermès watches, this new direction using complications that are more poetic than functional is getting rave reviews from horology heads. The price tag is high – the l’Heure Impatiente will sell for £28,100 from this summer – but I guess that’s the price you pay for imaginative innovation. However, if you want the handsome looks without the countdown chime, there’s always the original Slim d’Hermès.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Hermes
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

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THE DRG STYLE INDEX: Calvin Klein, Estee Lauder, Hermès, Grailed

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Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands and industry stories currently buzzing on my radar…

1. CALVIN KLEIN HOMES
Calvin Klein Madison Avenue Homes and interiors
It’s all eyes on Raf Simons as the new-look Calvin Klein finally materialises. For starters, there’s lots of news about Raf Simons’ reimagining of the Madison Avenue flagship store. The industrial yellow interior (by collaborator Sterling Ruby) is temporary while the store awaits a full renovation. But I’m more interested in the renewed homes offer with its mix of ‘found’ and designed objects including Homer Laughlin coffee mugs, Rose Cabat ceramics and Italian vintage glassware. Sounds good to me.


2. VICTORIA BECKHAM X ESTEE LAUDER ROUND TWO

Victoria Beckham X Estee Lauder skin perfecting powder
Not gonna lie, I really like the Victoria Beckham X Estee Lauder makeup. There’s a new drop about to land and the Skin Perfecting Powder is talking to me. £62 though – ouch. Read more here.


3. HELLO HERMÈSMATIC

Hermesmatic pop-up
It’s not my taste, but I love the concept of the Hermès ‘Hermèsmatic’ customisation ‘laundromat’. Revamp your tired old Hermès scarves (you know, all those tatty scarves you have lying around) with a dip-dye treatment by Hermès’ skilled colourists. After the dye process, watch your scarf being tumbled to deliver a soft ‘vintage-scarf’ feel. The concept is coming to Manchester’s King Street from 5th October along with scarf styling workshops that you’d be mad to miss.


4. GRAILED FOR WOMEN

Grailed Heroine womens resale site. Image by JAKE HATELEY LOUIS-VUITTON
Coming in September, a sister site to designer resale site Grailed. W magazine reports that “Heroine is based (like Grailed) on peer-to-peer buying and selling that feels like being part of a club of like-minded enthusiasts.” I’d be interested in a study that shows how men and women approach this sort of shopping differently. I love Vestiaire Collective but I don’t feel the community element is that strong. Is this sort of thing more of a competitive sport with guys? Do they relish the geek factor of tracking hard-to-get stuff down more than women? If women’s shopping were more like men’s, would the peer pressure encourage me to shop more? On balance, maybe I’m better off without…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES:  Calvin Klein, Estee Lauder, Hermes, Jake Hateley/Louis Vuitton
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

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On my radar: Lebon vegan toothpaste

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Lebon vegan toothpaste

Fenwick has just started stocking LEBON toothpaste in the UK. This vegan brand is sexing up two categories. Vegan beauty (which, like eco-beauty before it, had an unsexy, hippyish image) and oral care. I’m obsessed with my teeth but I definitely need encouragement to do the nightly brush sometimes. LEBON’s brand of naturally-derived flavours (think orange blossom, rose and mint) and beautiful packaging does what cleansing balms did before it – turn a chore into a chic, Instagrammable experience. (Call me shallow but that’s my observation!)

Lebon vegan toothpaste
Lebon vegan toothpaste

The LEBON website proudly proclaims the whitening toothpaste as organic, vegan and eco-friendly with no parabens, no colorings, no sulphates, no fluoride and lots of other ‘nos’. And it’s not because it’s trendy. “LEBON is vegan because this is our choice, whatever the trends,” insists co-founder Richard Pallacci in an email. Prices are high at £17.99 (nope, not a typo), but it’s a price that customers are willing to pay for a product that offers choice to those who want more control over their dental hygiene.

“The LEBON products are small batches with the highest quality level on each ingredient, each part of the products is made without compromise,” says Pallacci. “That’s why it is more expensive than most of the mass market toothpastes.” If you’re the kind of person who buys into the efficacy and ethics of luxury beauty brands like Tata Harper and Suzanne Kauffman, then this will appeal.

Lebon vegan toothpaste

While we’re talking fancy toootpaste, another brand riding the posh oral care wave is Aesop. Accompanying its cult £15 mouthwash is a cardamom and wasabia Japonica-spiked toothpaste made with essential oils. At £9, it’s in line with its other utility-luxe products and will look lovely next to your wabi-sabi reclaimed bathroom tiles and rose gold taps.

But do these products work? While they don’t contain the usual toothpaste ingredients, like fluoride, they use natural substitutes (e.g. cardamom, anise and clove) that claim to keep your teeth and gums just as healthy. The bonus is that you’ll likely want to reach for these a whole lot more than generic Colgate.

WORDS AND IMAGES: Disneyrollergirl. Clock, Asprey; watch, Hermes; toothpaste, LEBON; trinket tray, Anthropologie; jewellery, Couverture; lip serum, Verso.
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

On my radar: Leïla Menchari and Karel Martens

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A portrait of Leila Menchari in 1985- Photo by Edouard Boubat

Two stories caught my attention in the new Hermès magazine, Le Monde d’Hermes. The first is an amazing sounding exhibition celebrating Leïla Menchari, Hermès‘ extraordinary secret weapon, whose legendary window displays brought a playful spirit to the brand for 35 years. The exhibition, ‘Hermès à tire-d’aile — Les mondes de Leïla Menchari‘ will run from 9th Nov to 3rd Dec 2017 at the Grand Palais, Paris.

Leïla Menchari Hermes
Leïla Menchari Hermes
Leila Menchari Hermes exhibition

I also discovered the work of Karel Martens, an artist and typographer who prints graphic shapes onto cards, tickets and other discarded paper matter. I love these geometric patterns and hot and cool colour combos…

Karel Martens
Karel Martens
Karel Martens

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES:Portrait of Leïla Menchari by Edouard Boubat; 3 x Hermes; 3 x Karel Martens
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

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On my radar: a cache of vintage Judith Leiber minaudieres for sale

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Judith Leiber minaudiere Lot 184 Christies bags and accessories sale 2017

I bet you didn’t have me down as a Judith Leiber kind of girl. But I have a secret thing for these teeny tiny kitsch crystal-covered minaudieres. They’re like pieces of jewellery really, there’s no way you’re getting more than a lipstick and a pound coin in there.

Judith Leiber started her company in New York in 1963, an émigré from Budapest who designed handbags in her head to get her through the misery of living in one room with 26 others during WW2. She steadily built up her business of unique decorative bags shaped like fruit, animals and flowers, eventually selling the business in 1993.

Original Judith Leiber bags from before that time have her signature inside, something I learnt at the London preview of Christie’s’ next handbags & accessories sale, which takes place in Paris on 12th December. There will be 250 lots of luxury bags, including a yellow courchevelle leather Hermes Mini Kelly 20, which once belonging to Elizabeth Taylor, and some fine novelty Chanels (Matryoshka minaudiere anyone?).

The estimate prices are pretty good for many of the Hermes bags which are in impeccable condition and are estimated around £1000-£1500. These are a guide though so prices could go way higher. (Tip: the hot colour to invest in is pink.) It’s an interesting time for buying and selling luxury on the secondary market, especially handbags. Apparently, Christie’s is seeing lots more crossover of collectors from other categories – wine, art – which suggests they’re taken rather more seriously as investment purchases.

The good thing about a Leiber is it really does double as a work of art. It would be a shame to stuff this crystal Humpty Dumpty in a dust bag when he would be much happier out on display…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Judith Leiber 1990s Humpty Dumpty crystal minaudiere in green and red. Lot 184. l. 9 x h. 12 x p. 9 cm, includes mirror, comb and pouch. Estimate: EUR 1,500 – EUR 2,500

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

A jangle of bangles

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Hermes Wooden bangles worn by Bali Barret. Photo by Tung walsh for Self Service

Much as I love the idea of wearing an armful of chunky bangles, I’ve never quite managed to make it work. Maybe the answer is this arrangement of wooden bangles, mixed with a thin golden bangle or two. OK, these are Hermès ones (on silks chief Bali Barret), but hey, there’s nothing wrong with aiming high…

WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
IMAGE: Tung Walsh for Self Service

How to buy an Hermès fragrance

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How to buy an Hermes fragrance

There are many ways to buy an Hermès fragrance. In department stores, at airports, online. But for the best experience, in keeping with the poetic Hermès approach, I’d recommend buying from an Hermès store. This way, you get personal service (hunt out the charming perfume ambassadors in Bond Street, and Sloane Street) and get to experience all the delightful little Hermès touches, of which of course, there are many. (Here’s one I experienced: when I tested the scents, they were sprayed onto an Hermès ribbon, which was then tied to my wrist. Fabulous, no?)

THE NOVELS
Firstly, the categories. Hermès thinks of its fragrance collection as a library, so the different ranges are described as novels, haikus and novellas. The novels are the classic fragrances – the Caleches, the Terre D’Hermèses, the 24, Faubourgs. They tell a brand story, inviting you to share in the history of the house and if you’re interested, you can learn what was created when, and why. In the Bond Street store, I picked up an amazing book, illustrated with watercolour paintings that tell the story of each scent. And of course, a lot goes into the design of the bottles. The best-selling Jour D’Hermès bottle (below) for example, was designed by Pierre Hardy and is supposed to resemble a jewel, an object that you’ll treasure.

For these, you can also buy refill atomisers from the store (and you could, if you wanted to – but of course you wouldn’t – put in non-Hermès fragrances). The idea is they’re refillable, so less wasteful, and you can have them engraved on the premises for a real keep-forever treat.
How To buy an Hermes fragrance - Hermes Jour D'Hermes

THE HAIKUS
The Hermès Hermessence line is only sold in Hermès stores and they’re considered olfactory ‘poems’, hence the ‘haiku’ comparison. The USP of the Hermessence fragrances is their unexpected dualities, pairing scents that you’d never think to put together. I smelled quite a few (seven or eight) and didn’t come across one I didn’t like. Brin de Reglisse I loved. (A licorice and lavender combo, I mean, who would think!). And Epice Marine transports you to a seaside village at the height of summer – salty, windy and warm. This month welcomes the newest Hermessence, Muguet Porcelaine (below). A unisex Lily of the Valley-based eau de toilette, it’s vibrant, cool and green and comes in the most stunning Kelly green packaging. It’s a bitter-sweet release though, as it’s the last Hermès creation from the magnificent in-house perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena.
How to buy an Hermes fragrance -Hermes Muguet Porcelaine eau de toilette

THE NOVELLAS
The ‘novellas’ are the colognes, my favourite of Hermès fragrances; extremely light, and wearable. These so-called short stories have “fewer characters and events” that appeal to both men and women. I don’t think I could pick a favourite. Eau de Pamplemousse Rose is possibly the most accessible; fruity with a faint suggestion of rose. Eau d’Orange Verte is the original cool and citrusy Hermès cologne, and OK, Eau de Gentiane Blanche is my current favourite – earthy and calm for our muggy summers.

THE GARDEN SCENTS
Aside from the library scents, the garden scents are tied to the yearly Hermès themes and tend to be location-based. Last year’s was Le Jardin de Monsieur Li, inspired by a stroll in a Chinese garden that reflected that year’s Flanneur theme perfectly.

HERMES LE BAIN
The newest addition to the Hermès scent family is Le Bain Hermès, to fulfill all your bathtime needs. There are elegant hair & body shower gels, as well as moisturising body balms and body lotions. All would make lovely gifts; they’re beautifully packaged as you’d expect. But it’s the soaps that are especially gift-worthy. In graphic wrappings that mimic the Hermès silk carre designs, they come in sets of three with the option to choose your own favourites and combine at will. As with everything Hermès, as much as functionality is revered, you’re ultimately buying a beautiful object. As such, you’ll almost have to force yourself to use these rather than keeping them for show.

CLICK BELOW TO SHOP THE POST…

WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: Disneyrollergirl; Hermès
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples


On the terrace with Hermes and Henry

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Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward

London is experiencing a few days of welcome (albeit intermittent) sun and I’m starting to get holiday vibes. These Herme?s pictures portray the feeling, thanks to Mark Borthwick’s sunlight-flooded photography, Melanie Ward’s impeccable styling and Herme?s’ summer-ready clothes. The photos are from the current Herme?s magazine and the shoot is called Un Mirage…

Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward
Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward
Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward
Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward
Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward

To continue the outdoorsy theme, for a few days only, you can enjoy the outside terrace of the Herme?s London flagship store. The terrace is usually hidden as it’s part of an office block, but while we have the fine weather, why not head to this secret spot and enjoy the rarely sighted Henry Moore sculpture, ‘Draped Reclining Figure’?

Herme?s hosted a low key breakfast yesterday morning to celebrate its terrace where it serve tea in its new ‘Carnets d’Equateur’ tableware. So if it rains, feel free to take shelter in store – the tableware department is conveniently situated right next to the terrace…

1 Hermes Bond street terrace and Carnets d'Equateur tableware
Hermes Bond street Henry Moore sculpture
1 Hermes Bond street terrace and Carnets d'Equateur tableware
Hermes Bond street Henry Moore sculpture

The Herme?s terrace is open until Monday 30th May 2016 (weather permitting…)

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
Images: Mark Borthwick/Herme?s; Disneyrollergirl
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here.

Martin Margiela for Hermès – what was once radical is now timeless

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Martin Magiela for Hermes spring-summer 2004
Sometimes Pinterest does this annoying thing of suggesting ‘picks for you’ pins that have nothing to do with what you like. The exception is the treasure trove of Martin Margiela for Hermès era pins that have been popping up this week. It sent me down a PurseForum/The Fashion Spot rabbit hole looking for more examples from 1997-2003 (also the subject of an exhibition coming to Antwerp’s MoMu museum in March 2017).

These clothes were radical for Hermès at the time but look thoroughly contemporary now. And this was very much my look in the late 90s. I wore the slightly cheaper version from Joseph, Agnès b. and Helmut Lang, consisting of boy cut trousers with a long skinny knit tunic on top, a leather shirt dress and my beloved rubber riding boots. If they fit me now, they’d probably look great today…
Margiela for Hermes 1997-2003
Margiela the Hermes years
Martin Margiela for Hermes
Martin Margiela for Hermes
Martin Margiela for Hermes
Martin Margiela for Hermes

WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: The Fashion Spot; Purse Forum
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

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The anticipation hour

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Hermes l'Heure Impatiente watch

When I was being measured for my Turnbull and Asser shirts, they added a couple of extra millimetres to the cuff measurement to accommodate my watch. They specifically ask you what kind of watch you wear for this purpose. That would almost be redundant in the case of Hermès’ new l’Heure Impatiente watch. As part of the Slim d’Hermès line, it’s flatter than a pancake which is all the more impressive when you consider the mechanical complications they have to squeeze into the case.

The unique – and adorably whimsical – thing about the l’Heure Impatiente is that it celebrates the hour before the appointed time. The anticipation hour, if you will. So a ‘mechanical hourglass’ allows you to count down to a particular event (think ‘hot date’ rather than ‘job interview’) with the final moment announced by a gentle two-second chime audible only to you. All this in the chicest of understated watches, with stencil-like numerals by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig.

While the Cape Cod and the Médor are well loved Hermès watches, this new direction using complications that are more poetic than functional is getting rave reviews from horology heads. The price tag is high – the l’Heure Impatiente will sell for £28,100 from this summer – but I guess that’s the price you pay for imaginative innovation. However, if you want the handsome looks without the countdown chime, there’s always the original Slim d’Hermès.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Hermes
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

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THE DRG STYLE INDEX: Calvin Klein, Estee Lauder, Hermès, Grailed

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Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands and industry stories currently buzzing on my radar…

1. CALVIN KLEIN HOMES
Calvin Klein Madison Avenue Homes and interiors
It’s all eyes on Raf Simons as the new-look Calvin Klein finally materialises. For starters, there’s lots of news about Raf Simons’ reimagining of the Madison Avenue flagship store. The industrial yellow interior (by collaborator Sterling Ruby) is temporary while the store awaits a full renovation. But I’m more interested in the renewed homes offer with its mix of ‘found’ and designed objects including Homer Laughlin coffee mugs, Rose Cabat ceramics and Italian vintage glassware. Sounds good to me.


2. VICTORIA BECKHAM X ESTEE LAUDER ROUND TWO

Victoria Beckham X Estee Lauder skin perfecting powder
Not gonna lie, I really like the Victoria Beckham X Estee Lauder makeup. There’s a new drop about to land and the Skin Perfecting Powder is talking to me. £62 though – ouch. Read more here.


3. HELLO HERMÈSMATIC

Hermesmatic pop-up
It’s not my taste, but I love the concept of the Hermès ‘Hermèsmatic’ customisation ‘laundromat’. Revamp your tired old Hermès scarves (you know, all those tatty scarves you have lying around) with a dip-dye treatment by Hermès’ skilled colourists. After the dye process, watch your scarf being tumbled to deliver a soft ‘vintage-scarf’ feel. The concept is coming to Manchester’s King Street from 5th October along with scarf styling workshops that you’d be mad to miss.


4. GRAILED FOR WOMEN

Grailed Heroine womens resale site. Image by JAKE HATELEY LOUIS-VUITTON
Coming in September, a sister site to designer resale site Grailed. W magazine reports that “Heroine is based (like Grailed) on peer-to-peer buying and selling that feels like being part of a club of like-minded enthusiasts.” I’d be interested in a study that shows how men and women approach this sort of shopping differently. I love Vestiaire Collective but I don’t feel the community element is that strong. Is this sort of thing more of a competitive sport with guys? Do they relish the geek factor of tracking hard-to-get stuff down more than women? If women’s shopping were more like men’s, would the peer pressure encourage me to shop more? On balance, maybe I’m better off without…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES:  Calvin Klein, Estee Lauder, Hermes, Jake Hateley/Louis Vuitton
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

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On my radar: Lebon vegan toothpaste

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Lebon vegan toothpaste

Fenwick has just started stocking LEBON toothpaste in the UK. This vegan brand is sexing up two categories. Vegan beauty (which, like eco-beauty before it, had an unsexy, hippyish image) and oral care. I’m obsessed with my teeth but I definitely need encouragement to do the nightly brush sometimes. LEBON’s brand of naturally-derived flavours (think orange blossom, rose and mint) and beautiful packaging does what cleansing balms did before it – turn a chore into a chic, Instagrammable experience. (Call me shallow but that’s my observation!)

Lebon vegan toothpaste
Lebon vegan toothpaste

The LEBON website proudly proclaims the whitening toothpaste as organic, vegan and eco-friendly with no parabens, no colorings, no sulphates, no fluoride and lots of other ‘nos’. And it’s not because it’s trendy. “LEBON is vegan because this is our choice, whatever the trends,” insists co-founder Richard Pallacci in an email. Prices are high at £17.99 (nope, not a typo), but it’s a price that customers are willing to pay for a product that offers choice to those who want more control over their dental hygiene.

“The LEBON products are small batches with the highest quality level on each ingredient, each part of the products is made without compromise,” says Pallacci. “That’s why it is more expensive than most of the mass market toothpastes.” If you’re the kind of person who buys into the efficacy and ethics of luxury beauty brands like Tata Harper and Suzanne Kauffman, then this will appeal.

Lebon vegan toothpaste

While we’re talking fancy toootpaste, another brand riding the posh oral care wave is Aesop. Accompanying its cult £15 mouthwash is a cardamom and wasabia Japonica-spiked toothpaste made with essential oils. At £9, it’s in line with its other utility-luxe products and will look lovely next to your wabi-sabi reclaimed bathroom tiles and rose gold taps.

But do these products work? While they don’t contain the usual toothpaste ingredients, like fluoride, they use natural substitutes (e.g. cardamom, anise and clove) that claim to keep your teeth and gums just as healthy. The bonus is that you’ll likely want to reach for these a whole lot more than generic Colgate.

UPDATE! You can down buy Lebon toothpaste at Anthropologie. Click below to shop the post…

WORDS AND IMAGES: Disneyrollergirl. Clock, Asprey; watch, Hermes; toothpaste, LEBON; trinket tray, Anthropologie; jewellery, Couverture; lip serum, Verso.
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

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On my radar: Leïla Menchari and Karel Martens

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A portrait of Leila Menchari in 1985- Photo by Edouard Boubat

Two stories caught my attention in the new Hermès magazine, Le Monde d’Hermes. The first is an amazing sounding exhibition celebrating Leïla Menchari, Hermès‘ extraordinary secret weapon, whose legendary window displays brought a playful spirit to the brand for 35 years. The exhibition, ‘Hermès à tire-d’aile — Les mondes de Leïla Menchari‘ will run from 9th Nov to 3rd Dec 2017 at the Grand Palais, Paris.

Leïla Menchari Hermes
Leïla Menchari Hermes
Leila Menchari Hermes exhibition

I also discovered the work of Karel Martens, an artist and typographer who prints graphic shapes onto cards, tickets and other discarded paper matter. I love these geometric patterns and hot and cool colour combos…

Karel Martens
Karel Martens
Karel Martens

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES:Portrait of Leïla Menchari by Edouard Boubat; 3 x Hermes; 3 x Karel Martens
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

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On my radar: a cache of vintage Judith Leiber minaudieres for sale

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Judith Leiber minaudiere Lot 184 Christies bags and accessories sale 2017

I bet you didn’t have me down as a Judith Leiber kind of girl. But I have a secret thing for these teeny tiny kitsch crystal-covered minaudieres. They’re like pieces of jewellery really, there’s no way you’re getting more than a lipstick and a pound coin in there.

Judith Leiber started her company in New York in 1963, an émigré from Budapest who designed handbags in her head to get her through the misery of living in one room with 26 others during WW2. She steadily built up her business of unique decorative bags shaped like fruit, animals and flowers, eventually selling the business in 1993.

Original Judith Leiber bags from before that time have her signature inside, something I learnt at the London preview of Christie’s’ next handbags & accessories sale, which takes place in Paris on 12th December. There will be 250 lots of luxury bags, including a yellow courchevelle leather Hermes Mini Kelly 20, which once belonging to Elizabeth Taylor, and some fine novelty Chanels (Matryoshka minaudiere anyone?).

The estimate prices are pretty good for many of the Hermes bags which are in impeccable condition and are estimated around £1000-£1500. These are a guide though so prices could go way higher. (Tip: the hot colour to invest in is pink.) It’s an interesting time for buying and selling luxury on the secondary market, especially handbags. Apparently, Christie’s is seeing lots more crossover of collectors from other categories – wine, art – which suggests they’re taken rather more seriously as investment purchases.

The good thing about a Leiber is it really does double as a work of art. It would be a shame to stuff this crystal Humpty Dumpty in a dust bag when he would be much happier out on display…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Judith Leiber 1990s Humpty Dumpty crystal minaudiere in green and red. Lot 184. l. 9 x h. 12 x p. 9 cm, includes mirror, comb and pouch. Estimate: EUR 1,500 – EUR 2,500

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Buy it now: & Other Stories SS18 edit

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& Other Stories SS18 edit

I’m finally starting to feel myself emerge from the hellhole of winter (I felt the blues so badly this year!) into the first flush of spring. Last week I stopped wearing thermals under my jeans, I’ve been spritzing on the colognes (I’m back on the Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose) and the stripy tees have come out of storage. And this week I’ve noticed so many good, energising things on the new-in pages.

& Other Stories is brilliant at the moment – I tried on these red cat-eye sunglasses in store at the weekend and I didn’t want to take them off. Cat-eyes can be difficult to wear but these aren’t too retro and the pop of red is perfect if your default setting is black-navy-grey. (Yellow is also a surprisingly wearable colour for sunnies.)

& Other Stories is embracing the trend for Frenchy-phrased tees in a big way. These are quite fun and I also love this mock turtle tee. I find high turtle necks are too unkind to double chins, but a slightly high mock turtle is quite beatnik-y and sweet.

If you like print, & Other Stories has lots of colourful, whimsical print blouses and dresses, including retro cherries and florals. I like the cut of the silk shirts but I’m leaning more towards these graphic spots. The mac is a similar shape to an old COS one I have that always gets compliments and these sculptural earrings are lovely for a finishing touch if you’re still tentatively clinging to your all-black shrouds.

Finally, I’m loving this warm ochre yellow I keep seeing everywhere. I’m not sure if it goes with my skintone but if not, the trainers will work a treat.

NOW CLICK BELOW TO SHOP THE POST…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
MAIN IMAGE: & Other Stories SS18
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

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How to buy an Hermès fragrance

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How to buy an Hermes fragrance

There are many ways to buy an Hermès fragrance. In department stores, at airports, online. But for the best experience, in keeping with the poetic Hermès approach, I’d recommend buying from an Hermès store. This way, you get personal service (hunt out the charming perfume ambassadors in Bond Street, and Sloane Street) and get to experience all the delightful little Hermès touches, of which of course, there are many. (Here’s one I experienced: when I tested the scents, they were sprayed onto an Hermès ribbon, which was then tied to my wrist. Fabulous, no?)

THE NOVELS
Firstly, the categories. Hermès thinks of its fragrance collection as a library, so the different ranges are described as novels, haikus and novellas. The novels are the classic fragrances – the Caleches, the Terre D’Hermèses, the 24, Faubourgs. They tell a brand story, inviting you to share in the history of the house and if you’re interested, you can learn what was created when, and why. In the Bond Street store, I picked up an amazing book, illustrated with watercolour paintings that tell the story of each scent. And of course, a lot goes into the design of the bottles. The best-selling Jour D’Hermès bottle (below) for example, was designed by Pierre Hardy and is supposed to resemble a jewel, an object that you’ll treasure.

For these, you can also buy refill atomisers from the store (and you could, if you wanted to – but of course you wouldn’t – put in non-Hermès fragrances). The idea is they’re refillable, so less wasteful, and you can have them engraved on the premises for a real keep-forever treat.
How To buy an Hermes fragrance - Hermes Jour D'Hermes

THE HAIKUS
The Hermès Hermessence line is only sold in Hermès stores and they’re considered olfactory ‘poems’, hence the ‘haiku’ comparison. The USP of the Hermessence fragrances is their unexpected dualities, pairing scents that you’d never think to put together. I smelled quite a few (seven or eight) and didn’t come across one I didn’t like. Brin de Reglisse I loved. (A licorice and lavender combo, I mean, who would think!). And Epice Marine transports you to a seaside village at the height of summer – salty, windy and warm. This month welcomes the newest Hermessence, Muguet Porcelaine (below). A unisex Lily of the Valley-based eau de toilette, it’s vibrant, cool and green and comes in the most stunning Kelly green packaging. It’s a bitter-sweet release though, as it’s the last Hermès creation from the magnificent in-house perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena.
How to buy an Hermes fragrance -Hermes Muguet Porcelaine eau de toilette

THE NOVELLAS
The ‘novellas’ are the colognes, my favourite of Hermès fragrances; extremely light, and wearable. These so-called short stories have “fewer characters and events” that appeal to both men and women. I don’t think I could pick a favourite. Eau de Pamplemousse Rose is possibly the most accessible; fruity with a faint suggestion of rose. Eau d’Orange Verte is the original cool and citrusy Hermès cologne, and OK, Eau de Gentiane Blanche is my current favourite – earthy and calm for our muggy summers.

THE GARDEN SCENTS
Aside from the library scents, the garden scents are tied to the yearly Hermès themes and tend to be location-based. Last year’s was Le Jardin de Monsieur Li, inspired by a stroll in a Chinese garden that reflected that year’s Flanneur theme perfectly.

HERMES LE BAIN
The newest addition to the Hermès scent family is Le Bain Hermès, to fulfill all your bathtime needs. There are elegant hair & body shower gels, as well as moisturising body balms and body lotions. All would make lovely gifts; they’re beautifully packaged as you’d expect. But it’s the soaps that are especially gift-worthy. In graphic wrappings that mimic the Hermès silk carre designs, they come in sets of three with the option to choose your own favourites and combine at will. As with everything Hermès, as much as functionality is revered, you’re ultimately buying a beautiful object. As such, you’ll almost have to force yourself to use these rather than keeping them for show.

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WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: Disneyrollergirl; Hermès
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples

On the terrace with Hermes and Henry

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Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward

London is experiencing a few days of welcome (albeit intermittent) sun and I’m starting to get holiday vibes. These Herme?s pictures portray the feeling, thanks to Mark Borthwick’s sunlight-flooded photography, Melanie Ward’s impeccable styling and Herme?s’ summer-ready clothes. The photos are from the current Herme?s magazine and the shoot is called Un Mirage…

Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward
Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward
Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward
Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward
Hermes magazine Un Mirage by Mark Borthwick styling by Melanie Ward

To continue the outdoorsy theme, for a few days only, you can enjoy the outside terrace of the Herme?s London flagship store. The terrace is usually hidden as it’s part of an office block, but while we have the fine weather, why not head to this secret spot and enjoy the rarely sighted Henry Moore sculpture, ‘Draped Reclining Figure’?

Herme?s hosted a low key breakfast yesterday morning to celebrate its terrace where it serve tea in its new ‘Carnets d’Equateur’ tableware. So if it rains, feel free to take shelter in store – the tableware department is conveniently situated right next to the terrace…

1 Hermes Bond street terrace and Carnets d'Equateur tableware
Hermes Bond street Henry Moore sculpture
1 Hermes Bond street terrace and Carnets d'Equateur tableware
Hermes Bond street Henry Moore sculpture

The Herme?s terrace is open until Monday 30th May 2016 (weather permitting…)

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
Images: Mark Borthwick/Herme?s; Disneyrollergirl
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here.

Martin Margiela for Hermès – what was once radical is now timeless

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Martin Magiela for Hermes spring-summer 2004
Sometimes Pinterest does this annoying thing of suggesting ‘picks for you’ pins that have nothing to do with what you like. The exception is the treasure trove of Martin Margiela for Hermès era pins that have been popping up this week. It sent me down a PurseForum/The Fashion Spot rabbit hole looking for more examples from 1997-2003 (also the subject of an exhibition coming to Antwerp’s MoMu museum in March 2017).

These clothes were radical for Hermès at the time but look thoroughly contemporary now. And this was very much my look in the late 90s. I wore the slightly cheaper version from Joseph, Agnès b. and Helmut Lang, consisting of boy cut trousers with a long skinny knit tunic on top, a leather shirt dress and my beloved rubber riding boots. If they fit me now, they’d probably look great today…
Margiela for Hermes 1997-2003
Margiela the Hermes years
Martin Margiela for Hermes
Martin Margiela for Hermes
Martin Margiela for Hermes
Martin Margiela for Hermes

WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: The Fashion Spot; Purse Forum
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

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The anticipation hour

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Hermes l'Heure Impatiente watch

When I was being measured for my Turnbull and Asser shirts, they added a couple of extra millimetres to the cuff measurement to accommodate my watch. They specifically ask you what kind of watch you wear for this purpose. That would almost be redundant in the case of Hermès’ new l’Heure Impatiente watch. As part of the Slim d’Hermès line, it’s flatter than a pancake which is all the more impressive when you consider the mechanical complications they have to squeeze into the case.

The unique – and adorably whimsical – thing about the l’Heure Impatiente is that it celebrates the hour before the appointed time. The anticipation hour, if you will. So a ‘mechanical hourglass’ allows you to count down to a particular event (think ‘hot date’ rather than ‘job interview’) with the final moment announced by a gentle two-second chime audible only to you. All this in the chicest of understated watches, with stencil-like numerals by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig.

While the Cape Cod and the Médor are well loved Hermès watches, this new direction using complications that are more poetic than functional is getting rave reviews from horology heads. The price tag is high – the l’Heure Impatiente will sell for £28,100 from this summer – but I guess that’s the price you pay for imaginative innovation. However, if you want the handsome looks without the countdown chime, there’s always the original Slim d’Hermès.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Hermes
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

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